NYFW is now NYBW: Part One
RIP New York Fashion Week…but hip, hip, hooray for the Brands.
Drafting off Fashion Week is nothing new, but brand activations took center stage at NYFW this season, and the traditional runway seemed designated for the unimaginative. We saw this coming back when Tavi Gevinson was given the same star status as Anna Wintour in 2009, and many labels and PR companies quickly ceded authority in the name of a “changing world” order. Now, brands, that world is indeed your oyster.
Execution is the distinguisher. Taking the cue from our Salone Del Mobile Reporting, activation excellence was on display. While some NYFW initiatives were exemplary, more were disappointing. We won’t name names on the latter (we’re not mean girls; this week The Relevancy Read (in two parts) is devoted to calling out the characteristics for stand-out standing-out.
1. L.L.BEAN
Authenticity
On top of our hit parade is the L.L. Bean x abbode collaboration for customized Boat & Totes. The partnership brought out the best in both brands, but more importantly, it was true to the personality of each business. Plus, the juice was worth the squeeze for all. Loyal customers waited in line for an original L.L. Bean Boat & Tote personalized for ultimate self-expression; the brand saw a legitimate revenue stream, and abbode got the exposure and recognition it deserves.
2. HIGHSNOBIETY
Programming
The flawless coordination of the physical, digital, and social elements of Highsnobiety’s latest edition of the “Not In" series, Not In New York, makes the case for treating a brand like a band on tour*. Programming the equivalent of stage sets, performances, special guests, and merch for a meaningful, immersive experience. With The Standard Hotel as the host and an homage exhibition of the Maison Margiela Tabi at the heart, collaborations with NYC institutions included Blue Note Records and Scarr’s Pizza and the products and events to go with.
*CD & Co. launched this theory in 2017 with our On Tour thesis.
3. THOM BROWNE
Connectivity
Taking a quality-over-quantity approach (always the best, btw), Thom Browne eschewed the extravagant runway production in favor of an intimate dinner at the cozy West Village restaurant Commerce Inn. Dressing guests in his latest collection, they became both models and show attendees, making for a truly person connection with the brand. Maybe a sign of the times, but we can’t help noting the low-stress, low-waste approach to celebrating a new collection. And, not to be overlooked, the fashion-food fusion; the two have become inextricably linked. CD & Co.’s latest Food & Beverage report is forthcoming.
4. SALT & STRAW
IYKYK
Jumping on the If-You-Know-You-Know status that separates the in-the-know from the I-want-to-know, Salt & Straw, soon to open on the UWS, came to NYC early for a weekend of special flavors. Again, we see collaboration with classic brands, new and old, this time in the bakery space. Each leveraging their strengths, Levain’s cookie a la mode, Pop Up Bagels’ bagel ice cream sandwich, and Bread Bakery’s chocolate babka sundae stoke the fire for the brand as an NYC insider, and the bread-y flavors people have been gathering around. None of this is meaningful if you don’t recognize the iconic products the partnerships are based on. Well played, Salt & Straw.
